Friday 22 July 2011

post return to America rambling

Well, I guess the name of this blog should change since Im no longer in South Africa.  What the heck am I going to write about now?  (If I continue to write on this, that is.)  I suppose the U.S. has its own issues that would be pretty intriguing to any foreigner- a general obsession with fast food (which I dont even consider real food), excessive idiot box (my father's oh so appropriate name for the television) watching, serious lack of exercise, and excessive use (and therefore lack of appreciation) of natural resources are a few examples.

Returning to classes at Sewanee will absolutely not be comparable to my experience at the primary school in South Africa, but thats mostly a good thing.  Id rather not witness teachers smacking students around and screaming at them.  There ARE parts of the Sewanee life that would be pretty amusing to outsiders though.  That whole gown business and an overall fixation on tradition are the first two that come to mind.  There are also aspects of Sewanee living that are pretty awesome too, in my opinion- I dont think Ive ever locked the door to my room (maybe thats stupid, but its never been an issue for me), I know everyone I see when I walk to class, people are generally extremely friendly, in my six semesters, Ive had two, maybe three professors who werent amazing, most students are intelligent and fun to be around, the cafeteria food is (in my opinion) far better than it could be.  So, I guess I could write about life in Sewanee when I return in a month, but, although Ive listed the reasons Sewanee is intriguing and great, it wont be nearly as amusing as reading a blog about South Africa.  Sewanee is not a foreign country that is seventeen years out of a highly oppressive, racist, sexist police state.  I wont be living with an amazing family with a precious three year old this semester.  Ill be learning in a classroom, not a country.        

I am glad to be home in the hot, humid, sticky South Mississippi (I really do like the summers here), but I do miss that amazing, intensely paradoxical and confusing (but in a good way) South Africa.  I miss my family, I miss Lu's precious, animated little face, I miss my fellow SIT students, and strangely enough, I miss being in an environment that challenged me to no end.  As I said though, I am glad to be home, to be eating what I want to (pretty much the same thing every day- my mom tells me Im special), to be running every day, and just back in my semi obsessive routine.  I will definitely return to South Africa to further explore the complexities and fascinating society that exist there.      

Monday 11 July 2011

semi-final reflection


Well, last night with my homestay family.  Im going to miss them SO. MUCH.  I will certainly be happy to be back in the states with my biological family and (non-biological) animals, but I will absolutely miss my South African family.  Through living with this family, I have learned things that I could have never learned through a textbook, lecture, scholarly article, professor, or even the infallible internet.  Living with my family has been a true privilege and an extremely enlightening experience that I will never forget.      

Lu went to Joburg to be with her mom, dad, and brother which, although I miss her terribly, Im happy about.  She missed her family and they missed her, so I am happy that they are all together now.  I do miss her precious little face and smile though.  We got to be pretty tight buds.          

Although he is far too chauvinistic for my liking, Khulu has been quite entertaining.  Last night he apologized for any inconvenience he has caused me.  “What the heck are you talking about?” I asked.  “I don’t want to bother you.  I want you to have a good time.”  “No worries at all, Khulu! I love being here.  Its all good,” I reassured him.  That seemed to satisfy him.  “Good, my baby.  Youre my kid.  Youre part of this family.”  “And Im glad I am,” I truthfully said. 

Last week I was in the kitchen hanging out with my sisters, gabbing about something.  In his drunken state, from his chair in the living room, he shouted, “who’s that man in the kitchen!?!?”  “It’s Taylor,” my sisters calmly told him.  Classic.  Story of my life.  I swear this deep voice will get me somewhere one day.  No idea where, but somewhere. 

Tonight I asked Khulu what Im going to do for entertainment when I get back to the states.  He definitely got a kick out of that.  “I like you. Youre a good kid,” he told me.  Well thank goodness because you’ve been stuck with me for a month, buddy.   

Gran continually asks me why I don’t want to eat a huge plate of food at 7 o clock at night.  “I just don’t eat that much,” I try to explain to her.  This family eats an insane amount of food.  I have no idea how they do it.  I know they think Im absolutely out of my mind for not eating a feast every night. 

My older sister who is 18 is WAY into celebrities, fashion, and just being a diva.  She knows much more about the American celebrity scene than I do.  Cracks me up.  She always has questions for me about life in America.  Cars, school, celebrities, food, money, clothes, anything she can think of.  Im always happy to answer her questions, and often inform her that the typical American citizen is nothing like what she sees on television.              

Saturday 9 July 2011

a little bit of absurdity

I spent the majority of my day at uShaka Marine World, a touristy area where mainly middle-upper class folks hang out.  Not exactly my kinda place, but most of the group was going there, and the almighty internet was accessible there, so I went and made some progress on my research paper (definitely a good thing).  While I was there I closely observed the different types of people roaming around.  Muslims, blacks, whites, foreigners, young folks, old folks, people with kids, couples- South Africa's diversity continues to amaze me.  There is no typical South African, which is actually pretty cool.

In addition to all of the people I saw today, I saw groups of "traditionally dressed" (black men scantily clad in animal skins and furs- whether or not this is truly traditional or just stereotypically traditional, Im not quite sure) performing "traditional dances" (same question of tradition here).  I found this to be quite degrading.  It would be the equivalent of Native Americans dancing around in an Arizona casino looking "tribal" for all of the upper class whites to observe and stare at.  Quite similar to an exhibition of animals in a zoo.  To complete the absurdity of it all, the uShaka mascots (a goofy looking shark and some other silly character) bounced around behind the "tribal" dancers.  So we have "traditional" dancers dressed in their "traditional" clothing performing what are supposed to be "traditional" dances with 21st century westernized mascots running around behind them.  Anything wrong with this picture?  Anything just slightly odd about it?  I found it all ridiculous, to be completely honest.  Any kind of exploitation of anyone's culture is wrong, and these men dressed up like this for tourists to photograph and stare at seemed to be a bit exploitative.  Perhaps Im wrong, but it didnt sit well with me.

Sunday 3 July 2011

2 weeks left....

This past month has flown by.  Parts of it have been difficult (witnessing corporal punishment, sexism, oppression, and more mundane things like not being able to run every day and eat what I want to all the time), but most of it has been quite enlightening.  My homestay family has been amazing; I am going to miss them SO MUCH.  Lu and I are practically best friends, and my older sisters have truly become my sisters.

I have learned quite a lot about the ever so complicated South Africa.  This place is one big paradox with a million small paradoxes within it.  Race, sexuality, gender, society, oppression, power- NONE of these is easy to understand in any context, but especially here in South Africa.  The University students who worked in the rural area with us were very bright and ambitious, and discussed sexism and oppression openly, but at the same time defended sexist practices.  SO. CONFUSING.  "They are so embedded in it," the director (and their professor) kept telling me, "it's very difficult for them to even realize that these problems exist when they grow up in it and live in it every day."  Makes sense.

South Africa has some of the most progressive policies in the world, but the disparity between written policies and the practice of those policies is significant.  Corporal punishment was outlawed in 1996- all lower class public schools still use it and get away with doing so.  Same sex marriage is legal here, but South African society is extremely homophobic.  The South African academic world is filled with brilliant scholars who have done extensive research on sexism, gender roles, and discrimination against females, yet sexism is rampant.  Even within the educational world here, sexism is not addressed nearly as much as it should be.

One big paradox.  An extremely intriguing one though.  This has been such a learning experience and will continue to be, even after I return to the states.                    

Rural Homestay

This place was BEAUTIFUL.  The air was so clean and fresh.  I have never seen so much green space in my life.  The people there were too friendly for handshakes.  Hugs instead.  We had the privilege to attend a Zulu wedding.  How cool is that?  Dancing, singing, vuvuzelas, fellowship- a most excellent experience.

After attending the reception, I must say that I am extremely happy that meat is not a part of my diet.  A tied up goat greeted us at the entrance.  Poor little guy.  The men carried around slabs of slaughtered animal to be cooked over open fire.  The dead animal was not exactly handled in the most sanitary matter.  Again, a proud moment for a vegetarian.

The students with whom we worked were AMAZING.  Shy, at first, but who wouldnt be in such a situation?  Their mother tongue is Zulu, and their English is far from perfect.  Speaking to us was intimidating, but speaking to us in English was really intimidating.  As we spent time together, we all started to overcome the language barrier and had the privilege to learn all sorts of things from each other.  Many of these students live in what we would call highly difficult situations, yet they were SO HAPPY to be at this camp and to be hanging out with us.  I have no doubt that we (the Americans) learned much more about South African life and society, and life in general, than we could have anywhere else in any other situation.  Students who are as eager to learn as these kids were are far better teachers than textbooks and scholarly articles.    

Saturday 25 June 2011

complexities, paradoxes- components of reality

Our rural homestay starts tomorrow.  Im STOKED.  We will be living with families on an unspoiled beach.  No hotels, no casinos, no shopping malls, no chain restaurants, no tourists running around with their money belts.  Nobody has ruined this beach (yet).  Amazing, right?

I am going to seriously miss my sisters.  Playing with Lu every day has been quite a treat for me.  I have become very close with my older sisters as well.  Im continually amazed at how "at home" I feel with my family here.

The woman who will be living with us in the rural homestay is speaking to us today.  She is a professor of education at the University of KwaZulu-Natal.  She's also HILARIOUS.  "Ok. Let's introduce ourselves.  I'm terrible with names, so I won't remember all of your names.  I just call everyone darlin', honey pie, sugar."  Sounds like a good ole American, Southern woman.  She's filled with insights into the highly paradoxical nature of today's South Africa.

Racially, socio-economically, sexually, this place is SO CONFUSING.  Who's the oppressor and who is oppressed?  Its complicated.  It is absolutely not black and white (not using the terms racially).  I have encountered multiple white people who fought against Apartheid and suffered as a consequence.  There are also white people who committed horrible atrocities against people of color.  I have also witnessed very sexist black men.  There is no way to label all black people as one way or all white people as one way.  Or all women as one way and all men as one way.  I knew this before experiencing South Africa, but it seems to be much more acute here than in the U.S.

Our leader of the rural homestay spoke to us about her continual astonishment at Apartheid.  Even for a woman who grew up in South Africa, lived through Apartheid and its demise, it is shocking.  It actually happened.  And not that long ago.  People were tortured, killed, and robbed of their basic human rights solely because of their color.  Even more shocking and disgusting- we (the U.S.) and the rest of the world did very little to stop it.  To the contrary, the U.S. just recently (2008) removed Nelson Mandela and the ANC (African National Congress) from the CIA's list of terrorists.  A bit absurd?  I think so.              

Thursday 23 June 2011

school

The students at the school that I am observing are SO eager to learn, explore and discover in all areas of academics.  They are talented academically, artistically, and musically.  They are inquisitive and know a surprising amount about the politics of their country.  I have been highly impressed with their knowledge and curiosity.  I have NOT been impressed, however, with the school's failure to fully foster this curiosity and knowledge.  I looked at the exams for the students and none of them involved essay questions or any kind of questions involving critical thinking.  They all involved rote memorization (useful information, but strictly memorization).

I asked the teacher of my grade seven class if I could do an activity with them, which he welcomed.  I asked the students to choose a political party of South Africa and write five good aspects and five bad aspects about that party.  At the end of the activity, the chalkboard was COVERED in ideas.  "My students did this?" the teacher asked.  "Yes," I said "they know so much about the politics of their country."  "I had no idea," he said.  How would you know if youve never allowed them the opportunity to express this knowledge?!?!?!

I was amazed at how much these 13 and 14 year olds knew about their country's politics (the only things about politics I knew in 7th grade was what I heard my parents say).  I was also amazed that they had never had the opportunity to express this knowledge.

Unfortunately students at this school seem to be viewed as young, and therefore ignorant and in need of control by adults.  Totally ridiculous.  It has been difficult for me to see such bright students "stuck" in this situation.  Yelling at and hitting students is all too common in this school, and students are clearly afraid of teachers.

There are teachers at the school who are intelligent and do a good job of teaching their students, but the culture of the school is that teachers are at the top and students are at the bottom (in all facets).  The idea of teachers learning from students would be completely foreign to and not welcomed by the faculty.  Perhaps (and hopefully) this will change over time.